Re-upholstery 201 - -Day 4 (Deployment Projects #63 &64)

Alright - - are you ready to finish up this chair?  I am SOOOOO ready!  I have to tell you, this tutorial has kicked my booty!!  I have so many other projects that I have been working on this week and every night I think that I am going to write a second post about the projects I have accomplished that day - - BUT it takes me forever to write these step by step instructions, that by the time I am done, I just go straight to bed!!

Let me add this to yesterday… every chair is different and the arms are going to be done differently on each one - - so…. the best way for you to know how to do an arm, is to watch very closely as you take your fabric off - - I promise you that you will understand it much better when you see how things are put together!!

So - - after yesterday, all we had left was the back of the chair and the cushion!!  woohoo!!  Let’s start with the back of the chair.  I love to use my Curve-ease Ply Grip to attach the back.  It is the easiest stuff to work with once you learn how to use it.

Edited to add:  I bought my curve-ease off ebay I got 100 feet for something like $20 - - here is the link to the ebay seller I bought it from.  I have been using it for 3 years now, so I think it was definately worth the investment!  In a pinch, I have been able to buy it off of local upholstery shops - - it just depends of the shop owner whether they are willing to sell it or not!!

So, here is a mini tutorial on Curve-ease Ply Grip:

I made a little mock chair frame - - so that I can use contrasting fabric for you to be able to see this clearly!  This board is going to represent the frame.

I like to staple cording all the way around the back edge.  Cording gives your chair a custom finished look.  It also “absorbs” any gap that you might have between  your ply-grip and the edge of your chair. 

After your cording is stapled down, you are going to staple your ply-grip right in tight next to your cording.  You will staple it with the flat edge (the edge with the holes) flat against the frame of your chair, and the “teeth” side sticking up with the opening facing your cording.

Once you have your ply-grip stapled down, press down on each tooth section closing the “mouth” so it is only open about a 1/4”.

Next, lay your fabric smoothly over your entire back - - placing it exactly where you want it.   With a piece of soft chalk, trace the edge of your ply-grip all the way around your chair.

Trim your fabric to about 1/2” on the outside of the line you just marked.

Now, using your SMALL flathead screwdriver or an ice pick, tuck your fabric into the mouth of your curve ease letting the teeth grab your fabric.  Keep working your fabric in until you can’t see any of your excess fabric. 

As you go around tucking, and you get your excess fabric tucked in, press down the ply-grip with your finger so that the fabric cannot escape back out.

Once you have tucked in your fabric completely around the back of your chair, it’s time to secure it for good.  Pull out your hammer and smash that ply-grip down nice and smooth all the way around!!

See, that was super easy wasn’t it?

 

You are going to use the ply-grip along the left side, top, and right side.  Once you have that fabric secured, you will just need to pull the bottom fabric around the bottom of the chair - - smoothing it as you go and securely stapling it along the bottom frame.

Alright,  our chair is completely done except for the cushion.  Let me just throw a huge disclaimer in here now - - I forgot to take pictures of making the cushion!  Oops!  I do have to admit that it is really hard with this fabric (the black paisley) to see clearly what the pictures are showing, so, I have drawn out the plans for you and hopefully it will clear up any confusion.

Start by tracing your cushion with chalk onto your new fabric.  Simply set your cushion on your fabric and right next to the foam, trace your line. - - If your cushion is a square or rectangle (as it is in this chair) I find it is easier to just measure the cushion and draw the lines on with a yard-stick - - it is much more exact.  You are going to have to do this twice (once for each side of your cushion).  Cut both of these pieces leaving at least 1” seam allowance all the way around.

Next, you need to sew your cording right on the line that you have drawn - - you want your cording exactly on that line because you want it to land right on the edge of your cushion.

 

Now, measure the height of your cushion.  Take this height and add 2”.  You are going to add 2” because you need a 1” seam allowance on either side of the side band so that you can attach your top and bottom.  Cut a band of fabric that width (Height +2” = band width).  You want to cut it long enough to go all the way around your cushion.  You may have to piece this in order to get it the length that you need, just remember not to make your seam directly in the middle.

Once you have your side band cut, it is time to finish the edges.  I like to make my cushions with a zipper closure and I like to make my band overlap over the edges of my zipper.    So, first lets just finish the first end.   Fold over the end of your band 2 times toward the wrong side of your fabric - - as if you were making a hem on a curtain.  Iron this down so you have a smooth crisp edge.  Go ahead and sew along this “hem” for a complete finished edge.

Now, you need to measure the entire circumference of your cushion. 

Next, take the length of your zipper and subtract 6” (this is for your overlap).  Subtract this # from your entire circumference.

Zipper length – 6”  =  NZL (New Zipper Length)

Entire Circumference – NZL = the length that you need to make you side band

Once you have figured out the length you need to make your sideband,  fold up the other end and finish it just as you did the first side.

Now it’s time to attach your sideband.  To figure out where to start attaching your side band, you are going to have to measure out your zipper and remember that your side band is going to overlap each end of your zipper by 3”.  This is where you will start attaching your side band.  Remember that you have allowed for a 1” seam allowance so keep your stitch line 1” from the edge of your sideband - - this should be tucking in right next to your cording that you attached earlier - - in fact you should be sewing exactly on the same line that you attached your cording.

Clip your corners as you go around. 

 

Now, you are going to attach the side band to the opposite side of your cushion.   You want to make sure that  your top and bottom are completely lined up.  My best advice for doing this is to put your side of the cushion that you just attached the side band to, right side up on a flat surface.  Then, take your other side and place it right sides together on top of the first cushion – matching up your corners exactly.  Pin your side band to your second side exactly where  you need to attach it. 

 

Another trick for making sure your top and bottom cushion line up perfectly is to make a crease at each 90 degree corner and cut a little slit there - - now you know that the slit needs to hit each corner perfectly.

Go ahead and sew your side band to your second side.

All we have left to do is to attach the zipper.

To cut your fabric for your zipper, follow this equation:

Width of your side band   + 2” = width of each band  for either side of your zipper

                                               2 (divide your width of your side band by 2)

Rather than giving you step by step instructions on zipper installation - - go and check out this tutorial that does a fantastic job of explaining it all!!!

Now, all we have left is to attach the zipper - - you are going to do this exactly the same way that you attached the side panels - - remembering that you are going to overlap your zipper by about 3”.  Once you are done attaching the zipper - - it’s time to turn it right side out and put your cushion inside!!

Now - - step back and enjoy your handy work!!

 

It wasn’t too complicated was it?  Many of you have asked about doing couches - - here is the beauty of couches and chairs.  Couches are really just really wide chairs!  You might have to put a seam or two along the back of the couch and of course you are going to have more cushions to make covers for - - but I promise you that by the time you are done with all those couch cushions, you will be a pro!!!

Well - - if you have stuck with me through this all - - you certainly deserve an award!!  If you  have been inspired to try your hand at an upholstery job - - be sure to leave a comment with a link to pictures of your finished projects!!

Re-upholstery 201 - - Day 3

Alright - - are you ready for day 3?  Click on these links if you missed Day 1 or Day 2.

After yesterday, we had the back and seat base of our chair done.  Today we are going to tackle the arms.  Honestly, as far as the actual chair (not the cushion) this is the hardest part.  So, hopefully I can clear up some confusion on how to tackle these!

Today it is going to be super important to refer back to the photos you took as you were taking the fabric off your chair.  I make sure that I mark directly on my old fabric where the cording is sewn to your fabric (around the front of your arm from the inside bottom of your chair around the top of the arm ending under the curve of the arm) and where the fabric  is sewn together (from the point where your inside arm meets the seat base around the top ending under the curve of the arm).

Let’s start by taking your piece of fabric that you cut for the front of your arm and placing it on the front (I usually use long straight pins to hold it in place).  Using your piece of chalk, mark the shape of the arm directly on your piece of fabric.  This is going to be the line that you will follow when you sew your welting on.   Make sure that you mark on your fabric where you need to start and stop sewing your welting.  You are going to have a long tail of welting that is not attached on the outside edge

Next you are going to attach your fabric to the front panel  by sewing the piece of fabric you have cut to cover over the top hump of your arm with the welting sandwiched between the arm front panel and the arm top panel.  Again, this is not going to attach the entire way around. 

 

Make sure you mark where you need to start and stop (starting under the arm - - - with about 3 inches of overlap hanging free and finishing on the inside of the arm right where the arm meets the seat support - - again leaving about 8 inches of overlap hanging free)  This is all going to be sewn together.

Once you have the top of the arm sewn together, it’s time to put it on your chair.     Place the fabric over the arm making sure it is a perfect snug fit.  If you need to make adjustments, now is the time!  Where the top of the arm meets the back of your chair, this is going to tuck in to a small gap in the frame where you will eventually staple it.  After this is perfect, you are going to begin stapling.  You are going to staple the front of your arm first.  Lift up the front fabric and squeeze your staple gun to the inside edge of your fabric (where your welting is attached) staple along this line. 

Now, we need to staple the front outside edge.  Pull this fabric smooth and staple it around the corner.   You are going to have your piece of welting hanging free. 

Next we are going to staple the fabric under the curve of the arm.  Make sure you smooth your fabric over the arm as you go.  There is a wooden support that runs right under the arm - -this is where you will staple the fabric. 

Then trim the excess fabric.

Next you want to take care of the inside of the arm.  This fabric will tuck in a gap between the inside arm and the seat base.  You will staple this to the outside arm frame - - right on top of where you stapled your seat base fabric.   You can see the cushion sticking out in the picture above, your fabric is going to tuck in right behind that and staple on the frame below it!

The last part of this that we need to attach is the back of the arm.  Again, refer back to your pictures to see if this has been smoothly attached or if pleats have been folded and stapled.  On my chair, there were lots of pleating to make it a smooth fit around the curve of the chair.  Once you have made your pleats,  go ahead and staple it down.

Whew!  Now all you have to do is the other arm!!!

Next, it’s time to move on to the panel under the arm.  This is a fairly easy piece to do, so let’s get started!!

Take your new piece of fabric and place it over the under arm panel.  Keeping a 3”-4” clearance of  fabric at the top.  Once you are sure of the placement, you are going to fold this piece up, but making sure that you keep the top portion exactly in place. 

I don’t know what the technical name for this cardboard ribbon is, but it’s a life saver!  You can find it in the re-upholstery section of any fabric store.  It comes in a fairly large roll - - I’ve had mine for almost 2 years and I have done a lot of furniture!!  

You are going to lay this right under the arm on top of the wrong side of your lower panel fabric.  Staple right along this line with plenty of staples!  This is going to give a clean crisp edge under your arm and give it some stability.

 

Next, we need to attach the front of the panel.  You should have a piece of welting that is not attached along the outside of your arm.   Now is the time to attach it.  You are going to lay it smoothly along the edge and staple it down.

 

 

Curve-ease Ply Grip is absolutely the best stuff in the world!!  It is a re-upholsterers best friend! 

Attach curve-ease with staples right in tight next to your welting.

Then fold the curve-ease down so that there is just a 1/4” gap

Mark the line where the curve-ease is with chalk .

Then trim your fabric to about 1/2” of your chalk line. 

Tuck your fabric in the curve ease using a tine flathead screw driver or an ice pick. 

After you have your fabric tucked it, it’s time to pound it down flat with your hammer. 

All you have left to do now is fold your fabric around the back of your chair and staple it down, then pull the fabric tight on the bottom of your chair and staple.

And now, if you have stuck with me through all of this, you deserve a very big prize!!  I exhausted just from writing this and I really hope that it makes sense!!  Join me tomorrow as we finish up the rest of the chair.  All we have left is the back and the cushion!!